Hats from the Pacific coast of Ecuador
CRAFT→ Millinery
OBJECT → Sombrero de paja Toquilla
LOCATION → Montecristi
Along the Ecuadorian Pacific coastline, in the province of Manabí, Ecuador, there is a humble town with unexpected international reputation. Montecristi is a small town formed during the Spanish colonisation, famously known for producing Paja Toquilla hats, otherwise known as Panama Hats. Ecuadorian straw hats can be traced back to pre-Colombian times according to archaeological findings presenting hat wearing figurines from the Manteña and Chorrera cultures. The Paja Toquilla hats as we know them today originate from a town called Jipijapa, that developed a production industry during colonial times. In 1849 Manuel Alfaro a Spanish merchant invested in 220.000 hats transporting and selling them to Panama, subsequently expanding the export to north America. The hats became the biggest national export of Ecuador reaching the highest demand during the construction of the Panama Canal.
The production of straw hats was eventually expanded to other provinces such as Azuay and Cañar, opening the market for different product qualities and to numerous clients. However, Montecrisri still produces the finest and of the highest quality hats, thus maintaining a local industry and a long tradition. The production chain is a lengthy process involving various artisans, technicians and farmers scattered throughout the surrounding communities.
“Every step is executed by a different artisan with expertise dating back many generations. For every single hat, it requires the skill of at least 5 different experts and a minimum of one month’s labour”
RAW MATERIAL
The palm-like plant is cultivated across the Pacific coastline of Ecuador within a humid tropical zone of the country. Paja toquilla can grow up to 3 metres high, within a period of 2 years and can only be harvested during the wet season. The stems of the palms are collected while they are still soft to maintain their flexibility and natural cream colour. During the collection process the fibers are separated using a sharp needle, preparing the palm for the next step.
Carludovica palmata
PREPARATION
After selecting and separating the stems the palm is boiled for about a minute, transforming it into a smooth material. The split stems are then bashed and laid out to dry for days avoiding direct exposure to sunlight. The final stage of preparation is a twelve-hour slow cooking process using sulphur to whiten the fibers and ensure their durability.
SELECTION & WEAVING
The stems are sold and transported all around the country. The weavers of Montecristi and the surrounding communities carefully select the fibers according to size, colour and flexibility. The community of Pile has a long tradition of hat making hosting the finest weavers of Ecuador. The hats are woven is a twill pattern and the entire process may take from 3 weeks and up to 6 months depending on the thickness of the straw. The woven hats are classified by grades counting the number of fibers per centimetre. The grades start at number 2 and go all the way up to number 50 with only specialist weavers achieving such fineness.
FINISHING
The finishing process goes through various stages and requires specialised technicians able to deliver fine quality and strength. At first the edges are woven in a specific pattern to seal the hat and trim the remaining straw. Once the hat is woven it is then dipped in soupy water to remove any imperfections and discolorations. At this stage, several hats are separated in groups of natural colours or bleached finishes using a sulfur cooking process. Following on, the hats will need to slowly dry out before they are battered with various wooden tools, eventually becoming soft and flexible. The final step is ironing the hats using a balsa wood mould, slowly stretching them into shape.
SHAPING & DECORATING
Blocking takes place in specialised workshops dedicated exclusively for shaping and finishing the hats. There are various shapes, sizes and styles to choose from. The process mixes up hand manipulation and machine shaping using metal moulds to compress the hats. It is the only stage where a machine is used during the entire process. The last step is to decorate the hat using a ribbon to adjust the size and deliver the final look.
In our search for paja toquilla hats we visited numerous production locations, investigating the different processes. Panama hats are recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage and are sold internationally as a high value luxury product. However, during our visits, it was quite clear that the production chain is somewhat problematic with the producers of paja toquilla barely earning a fair price for their produce. The hats are exported and sold worldwide with prices starting in the hundreds and reaching thousands of dollars on the international market. Such examples of product chains raises the question on what is considered a luxury product and how a high value item cannot support fairy sourced materials.
